The recent rebranding of the Aunt Jemima brand by Quaker Foods, prompted by societal pressure, has sparked an outcry from the descendants of the real Aunt Jemima. Larnell Evans Sr., the great-grandson of Anna Short Harrington, voiced his profound disappointment in an interview with Patch, emphasizing the significant impact on his family’s heritage.
Evans expressed, “This is an affront to my family and me. This is part of my history.” He criticized the perceived hypocrisy surrounding the rebranding, arguing that the alleged racism stems from those exploiting images reminiscent of slavery. “This corporation profits from portrayals of our enslavement. Their decision now is to wipe out the history of my great-grandmother. A black woman. It’s hurtful.”
The Aunt Jemima character dates back to 1893 when Nancy Green, a former slave, became the face of the brand at the Chicago World’s Fair. Employed as a cook, Green served pancakes to visitors while wearing an apron and headscarf, a role she maintained until her death in 1923. Evans shared that his grandmother, Anna Short Harrington, succeeded Green.
Harrington, known for her pancakes at Syracuse University, experienced a life-changing moment at the New York State Fair in 1935. While serving her pancakes, she caught the attention of a Quaker Foods representative. Shortly thereafter, Harrington was employed by the company, and her image was used in advertisements and on products, making her a recognizable face nationwide. For 20 years, Harrington traveled across the U.S. and Canada, serving pancakes as “Aunt Jemima.”
Evans, a 66-year-old disabled U.S. Marine veteran, passionately argues against the erasure of his family’s history. “How do you think it feels for me, as a black man, to share about my family’s history, which they are attempting to wipe away?” he asked. He claims that Quaker Foods used Harrington’s pancake recipe without adequately compensating her heirs. In 2014, her descendants sought $3 billion in unpaid royalties, but their efforts were unsuccessful.
Evans suggests that rather than removing the images, Quaker Foods should acknowledge the profits made from depictions of Green and Harrington. “How many people grew up seeing images of Aunt Jemima at breakfast? How many companies profited massively without offering us a dime? They can’t simply erase it while we continue to suffer,” he stated. “They are going to erase history as though it never happened after making all that money. They aren’t going to give us anything, right? What gives them the right?”
Despite Evans’ strong views, Quaker Foods remains firm in its decision to phase out Aunt Jemima branding and artwork from all products by the end of the year.
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